In some ways you use wire the way an artist uses a paintbrush. Wire permits you to design the tree you envision, enabling you to create natural, flowing lines as you reposition branches. Branches growing above each other can be wired to allow sunlight to reach both. A gentle curve can be put in the trunk, or the trunk can be straightened.
Study your tree carefully to determine which parts require wired to achieve the shape you desire. Do not hesitate to use wire. Even at those times when you are unsure whether or not to wire a branch, wire it. The wire can always be removed if it is not needed.
Different sizes of wire are used on different parts of trees. In general, use 1,5 or 2 mm aluminum-coated wire for branches and branchlets, and 1 mm wire for very thin branchlets. For heavier branches and trunks, use 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4 or 5 mm wire.
As for length, cut a piece of wire one and a half times the length of the branch to be wired. When applying the wire, do not try to shape the tree, but concentrate on putting the wire on. Wrap the wire with one hand, and support the trunk of branch being wired with the other hand. Both hands should move together up the tree. Later, when you shape the tree, again use both hands, one hand doing the shaping and the other hand supporting the part of the tree being adjusted.
The wire goes onto the trunk first, then onto the branches, and finally onto the twigs, if needed. Start at the bottom of the tree and work up and out. Always anchor or secure the wire, so that when you begin shaping it the wire will hold what you are wiring where you want it. When wiring the trunk, insert the wire into the soil directly behind the trunk. When wiring a branch, take two or three turns around the trunk before you begin to wire the branch.
The wire should be put directly on the surface being wired, but not so tight to bruise it. Loose wire, wire that allows free space between the wire and the bark, will not provide the strength to shape the tree, nor will it hold the part of the tree you have worked on in position.
Neatly applied wire, the technique of which comes with practice, does not detract from the tree’s appearance. Apply the wire at a 450 angle, an application that works well and also looks good. However, you will have to adjust the angle to accommodate branches and twigs.
The wire should be checked often to make sure it has not cut into the bark. If it looks like it has, remove the wire by cutting it off with your wire cutters. It is always better to rewire a branch than to scar the bark of the tree.
If the wiring is successful and the bonsai holds the desired position when the wires are removed, no further wiring is required. On young material, the position of the wired trunk or branches may be set after a full growing season. But if there is movement after the wires have been removed, or the desired shape is not attained, rewire the plant.
When you are shaping it, the tree should be a little on the dry side, so it will be less turgid. This means that it will have less water in the trunk, and the branches will be more flexible. Of course, not all plants can be wired the same way. Some species are naturally brittle and should be shaped with care. Gently test branches for movement and brittleness by moving them with your fingers.
When removing wires, do not attempt to unwire. It is safer take blunt-nose wire cutters and cut the wire along the curves of the trunk and branches. Just let the cut pieces of wire fall off.
Refining the tree to the desired shape can be done over the next several days or weeks. Move the branches gently, a little bit at a time. Occasionally it is necessary to put on a second wire to accomplish the results you want. The second wire should follow the same line as the first wire.
To practice wiring, cut the branch from a tree growing in your yard. The branch should resemble a tree with a trunk and branches when held up. Insert the branch into block of wood in which a hole has been drilled to hold it in an upright position. Practice brings confidence, and soon you will be wiring which ease.
Size of Wire for Bonsai
Study your tree carefully to determine which parts require wired to achieve the shape you desire. Do not hesitate to use wire. Even at those times when you are unsure whether or not to wire a branch, wire it. The wire can always be removed if it is not needed.
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| Basic Wiring Technique for Bonsai |
How to Apply the Wire?
As for length, cut a piece of wire one and a half times the length of the branch to be wired. When applying the wire, do not try to shape the tree, but concentrate on putting the wire on. Wrap the wire with one hand, and support the trunk of branch being wired with the other hand. Both hands should move together up the tree. Later, when you shape the tree, again use both hands, one hand doing the shaping and the other hand supporting the part of the tree being adjusted.
The wire goes onto the trunk first, then onto the branches, and finally onto the twigs, if needed. Start at the bottom of the tree and work up and out. Always anchor or secure the wire, so that when you begin shaping it the wire will hold what you are wiring where you want it. When wiring the trunk, insert the wire into the soil directly behind the trunk. When wiring a branch, take two or three turns around the trunk before you begin to wire the branch.
The wire should be put directly on the surface being wired, but not so tight to bruise it. Loose wire, wire that allows free space between the wire and the bark, will not provide the strength to shape the tree, nor will it hold the part of the tree you have worked on in position.
Neatly applied wire, the technique of which comes with practice, does not detract from the tree’s appearance. Apply the wire at a 450 angle, an application that works well and also looks good. However, you will have to adjust the angle to accommodate branches and twigs.
The wire should be checked often to make sure it has not cut into the bark. If it looks like it has, remove the wire by cutting it off with your wire cutters. It is always better to rewire a branch than to scar the bark of the tree.
If the wiring is successful and the bonsai holds the desired position when the wires are removed, no further wiring is required. On young material, the position of the wired trunk or branches may be set after a full growing season. But if there is movement after the wires have been removed, or the desired shape is not attained, rewire the plant.
When you are shaping it, the tree should be a little on the dry side, so it will be less turgid. This means that it will have less water in the trunk, and the branches will be more flexible. Of course, not all plants can be wired the same way. Some species are naturally brittle and should be shaped with care. Gently test branches for movement and brittleness by moving them with your fingers.
When removing wires, do not attempt to unwire. It is safer take blunt-nose wire cutters and cut the wire along the curves of the trunk and branches. Just let the cut pieces of wire fall off.
Refining the tree to the desired shape can be done over the next several days or weeks. Move the branches gently, a little bit at a time. Occasionally it is necessary to put on a second wire to accomplish the results you want. The second wire should follow the same line as the first wire.
To practice wiring, cut the branch from a tree growing in your yard. The branch should resemble a tree with a trunk and branches when held up. Insert the branch into block of wood in which a hole has been drilled to hold it in an upright position. Practice brings confidence, and soon you will be wiring which ease.
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